Sanitary Wares

  1. Install Flush Valve after checking height.
  2. Tighten the hexagonal nut of the flush valve into the tank then slide rubber gasket onto threaded end of the flush valve.
  3. Position fill valve into toilet tank. Secure fill valve with locknut below tank.
  4. Attach the tank lever onto the tank.
  5. Attach lift chain to the lift rod.

Identify and know the 3 main parts of the tank fittings:

  1. FILL VALVE (w/ float ball)
  2. FLUSH VALVE (w/ flapper)

Remove the tank cover and check the ff:-

  1. Water Leve
  2. Water level should be lower than the overflow pipe of the flush valve and must be within the waterline mark of the tank. You may adjust the water by adjusting the float ball to its desired level not exceeding the waterline mark.
  3. Flush Valve
  4. Check the chain of the flapper valve. The chain might be too tight causing the flapper to hang on the flush valve. Adjust the chain into suitable length.
  5. Flapper
  6. Check the flush valve. Take out the flapper valve. Clean the flapper valve. Clean the flush valve seat. Overtime flapper may wear-out and be deformed. This time you need to replace the warm flapper.
  7. Others
  8. Add / put any colored water base liquid (eg. Water color) inside the toilet water storage tank to check visibly if there’s any leak from tank to bowl.

Unscrew the tank & bowl bolts and nuts (locking nuts) and check the ff:-

  1. Flushing Valve Nut
  2. Tighten the flush valve nut and make sure that the rubber gaskets of the flush valve are properly installed. (Thin gasket-inside the tank, thick gasket-outside the tank covering the flush valve nut).
  3. Locking Nuts
  4. If leaks found on their side, loosen it and check their rubber seal. Then slowly tighten the bolts and nuts almost simultaneously.
  5. Fill valve nut
  6. Adjust the water pressure. Check the rubber seal and

  1. Check the volume of water.
  2. Water level must be within the waterline mark. Less water on the tank will result into minimal slow motion flushing.
  3. Increase the volume of water in the tank.
  4. Adjust the water level by loosening (counter-clockwise) the screw adjuster of the float ball arm of fill valve. Water level should be higher than overflow pipe.
  5. Water keeps on “turning and turning” in the bowl.

  6. Check if somebody without your knowledge accidentally drops something solid which blocked the passage of the water in the p-trap of the bowl that have caused the poor flushing performance of the toilet.
    Consult a certified plumber should there still be a problem that have caused due to wrong installation.

Check the fill valve for clog and check if the water pressure is too low. Check and clean the fill valve filter screen.

Yes, there is. We grant a 10-year spare parts availability guarantee for all our products.

Electric Water Heater

  2. It depends on number of occupants in the house. For 2 persons, 40 to 50 Lt Capacities is sufficient. For 3 to 4 persons, 60 to 80 Lt Capacities will be required.

  4. It is an electrical unit. It should not be installed without knowledge of all the safety aspects of the product. Wrong installation will lead to serious safety and accident
    hazard. Always refer to installation 7 maintenance manual of this product.

  6. Water heater is always full with water. Water contains bacteria. If water is kept unused for long time, there is a bacterial growth & it gives some smell.

  8. The life of heating element depends upon the quality of feed water. The water containing high salt and of high hardness will cause scaling on the elements leading to overheating of element sheath. This leads to cracking of sheath and hence failure. ‘Soft’ water will enhance the life of heating element.

  10. Technically speaking heating element cannot be checked with uninstalling it and it is better to uninstall to check the condition and if required cleaning. However as general understanding using a multi meter resistance can be checked by a qualified person.


Where can I find information on prices for tiles Brochures? SCC has 25 show rooms in Saudi Arabia and the UAE. Click here to find your nearest location.

No, they are not strong enough to be walked on, they are generally not thick enough and the glaze is different, and not suitable for the floor. Keep an eye out whether the tiles which are on the wall are porcelain or ceramic, because you can use porcelain wall tiles on the floor as they are strong enough, it’s just ceramic tiles you need to be wary of.

Typical uses of ceramic tile are showers, backsplashes, bathroom and kitchen walls and floors. Requiring a stronger material than ceramic, porcelain tile is developed by composing finer bisques, finishes and firing methods.

Yes you can fix tiles over existing tiling, but first you need to check that the existing tiling is firmly bonded to the background, then clean and degrease the tiles. In order to get the best possible results you will have to rough the surface of the tile possibly using a piece of sand paper, once you have disregarded the dust off the tile then proceed to cover the tiles using bonding agent so that the tiles will have that extra bond with the existing tiles. We recommend that if you are tiling over tile on the wall use D2 adhesive and flexible rapid set for the floor.

Porcelain Tiles are known for their durability and zero-maintenance qualities which make them a favorite for use in areas that are exposed to heavy wear & tear. Especially when there is an opportunity to use a heavy duty material without having to compromise on aesthetic appeal.

Ceramic tiles are only designed to be use indoors due to the tiles being frost proof. On the other hand you can use porcelain tiles as they have the right ingredients to with stand the frost. If you are laying porcelain tiles outside you will need to use acrylic SBR Primer on the floor before hand, once that has dried (leave for about minimum of 12 hours), use flexible rapid (never use ready mix adhesive, always use powered adhesive).

Because you are getting a superior product, Porcelain tile requires the finest natural ingredients and rigidly controlled manufacturing process that utilizes the most advanced processes and technology.

The wooden floor where the floor tiles are going on to must be sound with no flexing. Firstly we would recommend overlaying the floor with 12mm minimum plywood, screwed at 200mm centers. Then you should apply one coat of primer to the wood and allow to dry 9it will depend on the adhesive you are using as to whether this is necessary). Then we would recommend solid bed fixing the tiles with cement based flexible adhesive. The floor must be dry fully before grouting (minimum of 24 hours). Then we would recommend using cement based wide joint grout with added flexibility.

Tile terminology can be confusing. Most types of tiles that are clay or a mixture of clay and other materials. Then kiln-fired, are considered to be part of the larger called “Ceramic tiles”. These tiles can be split into two groups, porcelain tiles and non-porcelain tiles. These non-porcelain tiles are frequently referred to as ceramic tiles by themselves, separate from porcelain tiles.

“Ceramic” or non-porcelain tiles are generally made from red or white clay fired in kiln. They are almost finished with a durable glaze which caries the color and pattern. These tiles are used in both wall tile and floor tile applications, are softer and easier to cut than porcelain, and usually carry a PEI 0 to 3 rating. Non-porcelain ceramic tiles are usually suitable for very light to moderate traffic and generally have a relatively high water absorption rating making them less resistant and they are more prone to wear and chipping than porcelain tiles.

Porcelain tile is a tile that is generally made by the dust pressed method from porcelain clays which result in a tile dense, impervious, fine grained and smooth, with sharply formed face. Porcelain tiles usually have a much lower water absorption rate (less than 0.5%) than non- porcelain tiles making them frost resistant or frost-proof. Glazed porcelain tiles are much harder and more wear and damage resistant that non-porcelain ceramic tiles, making them suitable for any application from light traffic to the heaviest residential and light commercial traffic. Full body porcelain tiles carry the color pattern through the entire thickness of the tile making them virtually impervious to wear and are suitable for any application from residential to the highest traffic commercial or industrial applications. Porcelain tiles are available in matte, unglazed or a high polished finish.

To be used outdoors, we recommend the tile must be frost proof and unglazed for the floor use. Make sure the absorption rate is 0.5% or less.

Glazed tiles are coated with liquid glass, which is then baked into the surface of the clay. The glaze provides an unlimited array of the colors and designs as well as protects the tile staining. The unglazed tiles are pretty much the same as the glazed tile, except that their surface is not coated. Full-body porcelain tiles do not show wear because their color extends throughout the tile, making them ideal for commercial applications.

A glazed tile is already stain proof, so there is no purpose to putting on a sealer. You may put a penetrating sealer on your unglazed tile or your grout joints. The penetrating sealer is an invisible, stain resistant shield that is absorbed into the surface.

PEI classes range from 0 to 5. The Porcelain Enamel Institute rating scale is not measurement of quality. It is a scale that clearly indicates the areas of use each manufacturer recommends and has designed their tile fit. A PEI 2 tile has been designed for areas where very low traffic and soiling is anticipated. In most cases the aesthetic detailing of these tiles is of prime consideration. You will often find high gloss levels, vibrant coloration and metallic elements in this group of tile. Conversely, a PEI 5 tile has been designed for abusive extra heavy foot traffic. The technical aspects such as surface abrasion resistance will be considered and must be achieved first before aesthetic effects are incorporated.

Class O – No Foot Traffic:
Wall tile only and should not be used on floors.
Class 1 – Very light traffic:
Very low foot traffic, bare or stocking feet only. (Master bath, spa bathroom).
Class 2 – Light Traffic:
Slipper or soft-soled shoes. Second level main bathroom areas, bedrooms.
Class 3 – Light to Moderate Traffic:
Any residential area with the possible exception of some entries and kitchens if extremely heavy or abrasive traffic is anticipated.
Class 4 – Moderate to Heavy Traffic:
High foot traffic, areas where abrasive or outside dirt could be tracked. Residential entry, kitchen, balcony and countertop.
Class 5 – Heavy Traffic:
Ceramic tile suggested for residential, commercial and institutional floor subjected to heavy traffic.

Any time tile or grout cracks, it’s a SYMPTOM, not a problem, and just repairing the tile or the grout will not take care of it. Until the REAL problem is found and rectified, the same tile or area of grout will continue to crack, no matter how many times you replace it. 99% of the time, it can be attributed to seasonal movement in the structure, either under, or surrounding the tile in question, and the tile needs to be isolated from that movement. Sometimes it can be as simple a fix as adding soft (caulk) joints. Other times, it may be necessary to either add joisting, or beef up the existing joisting to minimize the deflection of the floor. What the fix depends on the individual problem, but in all cases, again, the problem has to be identified and resolved before the cracking will stop.

Only a minimum of effort is required to keep surfaces in good condition, due to the fact that glazed wall tiles and flooring are resistant to dirt and not micro porous.
If laid correctly and washed regularly with plain water, quality ceramic flooring will maintain over time the appearance and the specifications of the product when new.
Furthermore, a glazed porcelain tile involves less maintenance than natural stones and marbles.

Ceramic is a natural material with a natural composition which becomes resistant when fired at a very high temperature. This process, however, can cause slight differences in the shades of color and in the actual dimensions of tile between one batch and the next. Therefore, tiles are grouped before packaging according to their shade and their caliber. These are then indicated on the label of every pack.

Yes. They are resistant to household chemicals and bath water additives and to acids and alkalis where specified, with the exception of hydrofluoric acid and compounds of the same.

The joint widths are generally derived from the difference between the nominal size and the work size, or are specified as recommendations in the filing standards.

Recommended joint widths:-

Side Length  :         up to 100mm:    approx. 2mm
From 100mm to 200mm:    approx. 3mm
From 200mm to 600mm:    approx. 4mm

There are no restrictions on the choice of joint colour for tiles. The right choice of joints is also important for non vitreous, as the joint water may lead to the dispersion of colour pigments from the mortar under the glaze, which will subsequently discolour the tile surface.

We recommend, before fixing, opening and laying out several cartons of tiles to confirm a harmonious and pleasant blend of shades. Also:

  • Leave an open joint or tiling gap of 2-4mm.
  • Do as small test patch prior to full grout application.
  • As a good practice, for polished or structured or rough surfaced tiles, apply a sealant or grout release product prior to grouting or refrain from using contrasting grout to avoid possible staining or stubborn trapped grout haze.